2022

A pinch of Halifax and beautiful Saint Pierre et Miquelon (Aug/Sep 2021)

 

We arrived in Halifax late afternoon after a pleasant passage. To our relief we encountered no lobster pots after passing the Canadian border. We decided to have some dinner first and anchored near Mc Nabs Island. A few hours later ARIA arrived too.

We were not sure if we should contact the border control yet or wait until morning but at some point André decided to call them. First they seemed very relaxed and wanted us to come over to the waterfront the next morning but as soon as they realized that we were not US residents they wanted us to come over right away. We told them that we will be there at the waterfront in one hour.

It was about 10 pm when we moored at one of the floating pontoons at the Halifax waterfront. No one showed up… we could watch the people at the waterfront enjoying the night and taking selfies. After endless hours of waiting two officers showed up. They were friendly but determined and explained us that the borders are open for US residents only but of course they would allow us to provision and to wait for a good weather window to move on.

So we prepared for plan B which was sailing to the two small French islands Saint Pierre et Miquelon, southwest of Newfoundland. Like Reunion Island in the previous year the French will save us once again… After the first day, no one checked on us again and we split the provisioning in several tours so that everyone could have a stroll. Karsten had also moved over to the waterfront and as he had a flight ticket to Switzerland they allowed him to stay on the boat and wait for the flight. Lucia had to do a school exam back home. We would meet them again in Halifax in September when hopefully Canada will open his border to Europeans as well.

We left for SPM on Thursday. The wind was perfect but there was a lot of fog. Thick fog was something we had not experienced yet in that way. We were sailing for two days in fog and did not see anything at all. Thanks good we have a radar, otherwise this would have been very scary. Just before St. Pierre the fog lifted and the sun came out. It was a beautiful arriving.

The harbourmaster advised us where to go and took our lines. Right after that he asked us about our Covid tests… because boats with no test would get a 700 Euro fine per person. We still had our pcr tests from the US and as the Canadians did not let us in, we officially came from the US with a short stop (but no entry) in Halifax. Luckily the French do not ask tests for kids younger than 12. So there we were. We could stay at the dock for free and the sailing school was just a few steps away. The harbourmaster explained us that maybe the local television would come the next days as they were always curious about new boats in the harbour. That sounded familiar to us… we all remembered the Réunion news channel very well.

It was Saturday afternoon and we got ready to have a first look around in the village. As we walked past the townhall we heard some noise… people clapping hands… it sounded like some party or festival. We followed the noise and came to a big orange red wall ” le fronton” they call it. There were two teams of two players playing against each other ” la pelote”. It is a game that the Basque people brought to the island. The first settlers were Basque, Norman and Breton fishermen in times when cod fishing was a big industry on this archipel. The flags of the Basque, Britanny and Normandy are still represented in the local SPM flag.

The festival “La fête des basques” had started the beginning of the week and would end on Sunday. These were now the last two days with the finals in the pelote turnament and Basquue folk dances and games. Perfect timing for us to see that part of the local culture. We ate some delicious risotto and basque sweets at a food stall. Of course we would came again on Sunday afternoon to see the games of “force des basques” and the final of the pelote turnament. It was great fun! Several teams played against each other to proof their skills in sawing a tree stump, throwing hay stacks over a high line or carrying heavy jerrycans as long as possible and so on. The whole village seemed to be there to cheer the teams. What a great event and fun beginning of our stay in St. Pierre.

On Monday morning the television team came to ask for an interview and it was broadcasted the same day in the evening journal. Two days later we had a friendly visit of Emilie. She had seen us on television and was curious to see the boat. Her daughter Lilia was 5 years old and went to the sailing course for the small kids. Emiliee’s husband Guillaume worked for the French marine. He had already worked in a lot of different places, like the Caribbean, French Polynesia and before coming to St. Pierre they had lived in La Réunion for three years because of his job. With our love for this beautiful island in common we connected very quickly and arranged to do a picnic together on the weekend.

Amina would have loved to join the same sailing course as Lilia but it was unfortunately fully booked. Where as Jaël was able to join the optimist course Thursday and Friday and the whole following week. But first she had to proof that she can swim… on Wednesday afternoon they took her to the étang where the sail school had their sup and windsurf classes . The water temperature there was a bit warmer than in the sea. The instructor quickly saw that she could swim, so she was welcome to start sail class the following day.

Jaël loved the sailing course. It was the perfect setting anyway. She could jump off our boat and just walk over to the sailing school. The team there was extremly friendly, motivated, well organized and great with the kids. Amina always accompanied Jaël in the morning in order to play with the other kids before the class and towards the end of the class she would hang around there, hoping she would also get a chance to climb up the mast and ring the bell. And she did! They let her climb up too and she was so happy!

After one week, Annika and Thomas from ASTA arrived. We had not met them in Maine as they where always a bit ahead of us but we had been in touch with them on whats app. They had also tried their luck in Halifax but were not let into Canada either. So Saint Pierre et Miquelon was also their Plan B. It was great to see them again.

Our days were filled with boat schooling and exploring the island on beautiful hikes. Blueberry season had already started…. hmmmm… delicious! Some afternoons Jaël and Amina went to the scooter park by themselves and they enjoyed their independence. They even walked to Emelie’s house to play with Lilia one afternoon. Saint Pierre is a very safe place. There is hardly any crime and people don’t even lock their houses.

We felt very at home and had also found our favourite restaurant ” le petit gravier”. It does not look very special from the outside, you can barely notice the restaurant sign, but what a surprise when you made it through the ” tambour”. You will find yourself in a beautiful restaurant with a very nice interieur. They serve French cuisine with a local touch… we can highly recommend!

These “tambours d’entrée”are a typical feature of the houses in St. Pierre. It is a small enclosed porch projecting out into the street. This has the practical effect of allowing everyone to get their wet gear off before going inside. The town of St. Pierre is packed closely around the main harbour in small colourful houses. Most houses date from the first part of the 20th century, after a series of fires destroyed the old 19th century town. St. Pierre had a burst of prosperity in the 1920s, when it was the base for smuggling liquor to the east coast of the US during prohibition. There are even a few houses built from the discarded whisky cases. Since the collapse of the cod fishery SPM largely depends on subsidies from Metropolitan France.

The signs of the ancient cod fishing industry are still very present though. On Île aux Marins, the small island close to the main harbour, there is a beautiful museum built in several historical buildings, where you can learn more about the life on the archipel these times. There is also a group of people “les Zigotos” who would like to preserve the heritage of the traditional fisherboats called “les doris”. Jean-Marc and his friends are happy to welcome people in their small museum and sometimes they have live music and small events at their boatshed. We were invited to go rowing in one of these doris on a afternoon…. not so easy… they could stack these boats on a bigger boat and deployed them at the fishing grounds… that must have been tough work for these brave fishermen to be out there in these small boats in rough weather.

As Miquelon has not many protected anchorages you have to pick a good weather window to go there. We missed that oportunity because of Jaël’s sailing classes. But so we enjoyed St. Pierre even more. On Sunday the 5th September there was a charity childrens play day on the football ground near the scooter park. Jaël and Amina were all excited about it and could not wait.
Lilia and Emilie joined us and it was a great event with a lot of fun games for the children and even pony riding to Amina and Jaël’s delight. Later in the afternoon we met another family from la Réunion. Nicolas, the father had a 3 month job as emergency doctor in the hospital in St. Pierre. After that, in December they were planning to travel from Canada to Central America. They had four kids: the oldest Lola, a bit older than Jaël, then Timothey, who had been in the same sailclass as Jaël, another boy called Mahé, a bit younger than Amina and baby Zoë, the cutest little person you can imagine. Nicolas and Méli invited us for dinner the next evening, which unfortunately also was our last evening in St. Pierre before leaving. We spent a wonderful evening together with and the kids had a great time. Of course everyone was sad to leave our friends in St. Pierre.

We left St. Pierre on Tuesday, 7th of September. Finally the Canadian borders will now open for Europeans. Unfortunately the weather forecast also showed hurricaine Larry making his way up North to Saint Pierre and Newfoundland… The plan was to sail to Fortune, which was only a 20 nm trip, clear into Canada their and then sail West to the South coast of Newfoundland. We were planning to hide deep into a river fjord. There we should at least be protected from waves and swell.

Thank you to all the friendly people we met in Saint Pierre, especially Emilie, Guillaume and Lilia. We enjoyed our time on this beautiful and very special place on earth and will keep wonderful memories.

 

2022

Caribbean to Azores in March/April (2022) – how to do it

March/April is very early in the season to sail from the Caribbean to the Azores. We knew that well before we started and yet we had all intention of going this early.
We sold our yacht whilst we were in the Caribbean and had agreed to hand it over to the new owner at the end of June in Italy. We wanted to be in the Mediterranean at the end of April to have as much time as possible in the Med before we finaly say goodbye to our beloved Mirabella.

So we drew up a plan of how to do it early in the season. We would leave the Caribbean in late March and aim more or less directly at Horta. Once we reach the designated ‘waiting’ area we would evaluate the weather forecast and only continue into the ‘High Wind Zone’ if we have a favourable weather forecast. If the forecast is not good enough, we would sail slow or stop.

Key points of our plan to sail across the North Atlantic
Real time screen shot from a friend: Perfectly positioned at the edge of the low. Winds 30kts, gusting 40kts for us. 50-60kts near the Azores.

Why is it more difficult in March/April?

The ideal time to cross from the Caribbean to Europe is in May/June. By then the lows and winterstorms in the North Atlantic are fewer and they don’t go too far south anymore. The Azores high is well estabilshed and keeps the lows up north. Later then June is not ideal cause the Hurrican risk starts to increase.

We split our voyage into three different stages.
1) Leaving the tradewind belt
2) Crossing the center of the high
3) Sailing east north of 30N

Tradewind belt

The first part was no problem but maybe a bit uncomfortable. To leave the trade wind belt we had to sail close hauled against the trade winds and a substantial swell. We found a window where it only took us 36 hours to get out of the tradewinds. It was managable.

Crossing the high

This wasn’t a real big deal either. Luckily Mirabella doesn’t need much wind to move. Once we left the tradewind belt the winds got lighter and we unreefed the sails and switched to the code zero. We managed to sail most of it but for two periods of about 24hours we needed the engine to continue.

Amina, 6, goes for a swim in calm seas

 

We play Monopoly whilst motoring through the center of the high

 

Sailing east north of 30N

Here it started to get interesting. There is a real risk of strong lows tracking across the Atlantic north of 30N. In Winter and well into spring this risk is significantly higher then later in summer.
When one starts in the caribbean, this sailing area is 1000nm and more away. This means there is no real forecast for this area when you leave the caribbean.
Our strategy was to cross the tradewind belt and the center of the high and then decide based on the latest forecast if we shall continue. Before we left I defined that we only cross 32N/40W when we have a acceptable forecast all the way to Horta.

The front arrives, with rain as always

How did it work out?

When we were about 1500nm away from Horta the first forecasts started to indicate that a very powerfull low was about to cross our path. We kept sailing for another two days until we got further clarity about this low. Once it was reasonably certain that the low will come with very strong winds (50kts wind, gusts more then 65kts) we slowed down and ultimately stopped for 3 days. It was very awkward to heave-to in the middle of the Atlanic, 1000nm from anywhere. We did not want to cross 32N 41W before the center of the low had passed.

The kids are hiding below whilst it is blowing hard outside

This strategy worked out perfectly. We kept enough south to avoid the very strong winds and started sailing as soon as the front was near. We experienced 30kts wind with gusts just below 40kts. Strong winds for sure, but nothing dangerous. Without stopping we would have seen 50+kts.

Thanks to todays satellite communication and weather forecasting we have great possibilties of planning and executing save ocean crossings even early in the season. The key is to understand the weather pattern before departure and draw up an action plan for the different possible forecasts.

Hiking in the Azore. Beautiful!
2021

New York to Maine (June-August 2021)

We arrived in Manhasset Bay in the afternoon. It was a beautiful evening and we wanted to meet on land for dinner together with ARIA and LITTLE CLOUD. Andrew and Michelle were already waiting for a table and after a while we got the most beautiful table on the pontoon…. of course the prizes were outstanding too but it is not very often that we go to fancy restaurants and this setting was simply perfect.

The following day we did some provisioning and Little Cloud left already. We were planning to meet them again on Block Island. And we did. Block Island is a place we can highly recommend. It is a peaceful small island with about a 1000 inhabitants, accessible by ferry or private boat. Very close to the dinghy dock there is a bicycle rental place where we could rent a tag along for Amina and a bicycles for André, Jaël and me. We cycled first to the North Lighthouse where we caught up with Little Cloud then had pizza for lunch ) a nice garden restaurant. After lunch we cycled all the way South to see the impressive Mohegan Bluffs. What a great day we had! We all loved it! The following day we wanted to check out the local library with Jaël and Amina. Luca and Lucia joined. As soon as we had arrived in the library, Amina was completely over the moon… the library had an incredible play corner for kids of her age including a diner with a lot of accesories. It was very difficult to get Amina out of the library again. The bar was set high from then on. We visited a couple of libraries since then but the one on Block Island remained Amina’s favourite.

After Block Island the three boats had different plans. LITTLE CLOUD was heading to Boston to visit Michelles family, ARIA wanted to see Newport and we planned to go through the Cape Cod canal and then visit Provincetown. We promised to meet again in Portland.

Provincetown once was known for it’s fishing and whaling industry but now is a colourful holiday destination of the gay and lesbian scene. In the 80ies it was one of the first communities where AIDS patients were treated with humanity and respect. Today you find rainbow flags everywhere and people of every kind living together in peace.

There is a beautiful causeway to walk over to the Wood End Lighthouse and there is a great library very close to the dinghy dock too. It looks like a church from the outside and as soon as you are inside you understand why the building is constructed this way. There is a half-scale replica of the “Rose Dorothea” schooner on the first floor. In August 1907 a cup was offered by Sir Thomas Lipton for a Fisherman’s Race in Massachusetts Bay. Two of the competing schooners were from Provincetown. Despite loosing her fore-topmast in the final leg of the race, the Rose Dorothea won the race and brought the cup to Provincetown. In 1977, as a tribute to the great fishing schooner, construction began in the Heritage Museum, now the Provincetown Public Library.

We enjoyed our days in Provincetown and headed towards Portland as soon as the wind was in our favour. We wanted to pick up our new Lithium batteries. André had ordered them when we were in New York. Our old batteries did not perform very well anymore and it was time to make the move to Lithium. Coming closer to Portland we slowly understood what everyone was saying about Maine and lobster pots… there were already some around Cape Cod but there were definitely more and more towards Portland.

We anchored behind the buoys of Handy Boat and the Portland Yacht Club in Falmouth. Later in the afternoon it was getting very busy around us…. We were in the first row for the Thursday race. The starting point was set very close to our boat. It was great to watch the yachts trying to get the best starting position. There was a blue x-yacht named PHOENIX that of course caught our eyes. 

André picked up the batteries and got rid of the old heavy ones with Karsten’s help. I left the boat on Saturday, 19th of June to meet my 18 year old “godchild” Leyla. After 3 months in Hawaii she was on her way home to Switzerland and we arranged to meet in New York. Meanwhile André was going to install the new batteries. Unfortunately there was some sort of stomach flu going around, which was bad timing… Karsten had got it first and then passed it to his kids. While André was installing the batteries Amina and Jaël had been playing with Luca and Lucia on ARIA so Amina got it Saturday! A day later Jaël got it as well.
Luckily André did not join the flu party this time. There was not a lot I could do for them as I was already in New York when it all started. But I felt very sorry for André for having to deal with two sick girls in addition to the installation of the new batteries. 

It was great to be back in New York. Another two and a half days to explore this incredible city. Saturday afternoon Xiaolei picked me up at the airport. After a city stroll through Central Park and 5th avenue we went for dinner and I could stay in her Air B&B. On Sunday I met Leyla for breakfast in Bryant Park. So fantastic to see her here and explore New York together. After breakfast we left the luggage at the U Hotel 5th Avenue, just two blocks away from the Empire State building. We grabbed a citibike and started our incredible city duathlon. We cycled all the way to Brooklyn, explored the Dumbo area and then cycled and walked all the way back up to the Lincoln Center, had dinner in the Hell’s Kitchen area and walked back to the hotel with a short stopover at Times Square. What a day! Don’t know how many kilometers we had made but it was a lot… we were very tired but very happy! Our flights were both on Monday evening, so we still had most of the day. After a delicious breakfast at the Hudson river we cycled all the way up to 79th Street boat basin and then headed to Central Park. It was a very hot day so we took it a bit slower. After an ice cream stop at Rockefeller Center we walked back to the hotel to get our luggage. We finished our city adventure at Bryant Park, where we had started the day before and then took the metro to Jamaica. These were unforgettable days and I was very glad that I took the opportunity.

When I got back to the Portland Yacht Club it was already about 11pm and the kids were asleep. André picked me up with the dinghy. He had done an incredible job! The batteries were installed and working! Amina had already recovered from the flu but Jaël was still very weak.

On Thursday I went ashore to do some laundry. When André came to pick me up we saw the X-Yacht PHOENIX at the dock. They were picking up crew for the Thursday race again. We walked over and started chatting with them. A very friendly couple, Sean and Kim owned the boat and they invited us to race with them on PHOENIX next Thursday. Doing regattas with Mirabella in Tonga had been a lot of fun but of course you are not pushing the limits when you are racing with your floating home. It is like racing with the breaks on, so we were looking forward to the next Thursday race.
But before, we moved to Yarmouth which was where Andrew’s brother Stephen lived. He had invited us for a real Maine lobster bake and we were all excited about that. Stephen had already prepared the fire at the beach. On top of it he placed an eternit plate and a thick bed of seaweed. On that he put a cheesecloth. On top of that cloth followed first potatoes then lobsters, onions, wet corn cobs, a whole package of eggs, clams and even sausages in a net. He covered all that with a second cheesecloth and covered everything with seaweed again and aluminium foil. So basically the lobster and all the other ingredients get steamed in this package.

When everything was cooked long enough Stephen carefully opened the package and put everything in a wheelbarrow to bring it up to his garden. Before we had quickly built up a party tent with the help of everyone as it had begun to rain. It was a delicious meal in wonderful company. We felt very blessed to be so welcomed by Andrew’s family.

The Thursday race of the following week was moved to Wednesday but then cancelled because of thunderstorms. They rescheduled it for Thursday and André and me were all excited to race with Sean and Kim on PHOENIX with their racing crew but unfortunately there was no wind at all and the race got finally cancelled again. Kim spoiled us with heavenly delicious charcuterie and cheese and we spent a nice evening together with them and their friends. Jaël and Amina were on ARIA in the meantime.

Stephen invited us for the 4th of July parade in his neighbourhood. The color code for the parade was red and blue of course, and after a little brainstorming for ideas together with ARIA we decided to do paint some special T-Shirts. Kim (from PHOENIX) was so kind to drive me to Walmart and some other stores, where I found everything that we needed. We had great fun on ARIA to create our T-Shirts and the result of our efforts was amazing. It was a rainy morning in Yarmouth on the 4th of July, but we made the best of it and were by far the most colorful group. Even our foul weather clothing matched the colour code. Stephen and David had organized coffee with spirit, hot chocolate and donuts. It was a beautiful get together. A neighbour invited us to a live music concert in his barn in the afternoon and we promised to come. Back at Stephen’s place we had a delicious potluck (means: a meal or party to which each of the guests contributes a dish) in his garage. Stephen and David grilled hamburgers and hot dogs, Betsy (Andrew and Stephen’ s sister) brought a delicious salad and garlic bread, we brought focaccia, guacamole, rillette de thon and a chocolate cake it was simply a delicious lunch in great company. In the afternoon we walked over to the neighbour’s barn and enjoyed the live music. It felt so good to dance again and listen to live music after all this lock down period. What a great 4th of July!

We moved over to Falmouth again to invite Kim and Sean for dinner on Mirabella before leaving. They gave us a lot of useful informations and tips where to find the best anchorages and nicest places. We promised to visit them again on our way back South in autumn. Uups… yes I think I forgot to mention that…. we had changed our plan again when we were in New York! Plans of sailors are written in the sand… we had proofed that saying multiple times… As the plan of returning to Europe over Greenland and Norway had become more concrete we realized that coming home in October might not be the best timing for a new start… so we decided to do a Northern loop in summer, then sail back to the Caribbean in autumn and then do an early crossing to Europe end of March beginning of April. So we would be back May/ June.

On the 10th of July we left all these nice people in the Portland area with a firm promise to visit them on our way back South again. With all these islands and bays you have to plan your routing well, as you do not make as much progress. After a ?? mile passage which took us almost the whole day we arrived in “The basin” a beautifully remote anchorage with 360° protection as the entrance is very narrow and with a 90° turn. We went on a beautiful hike there, the Mika trail. The forecast for the next days was not brilliant so we decided to sail to Boothbay, a beautiful coastal town with a nice historic walk to do. That would also be fun when the weather is not so sunny. Stephen and David came up to Boothbay to join LITTLE CLOUD for a short weekend trip and we enjoyed pizza together in a small restaurant in town.

We headed on to Camden, another beautiful town situated in Penobscot Bay, the sailing mekka of Maine. The scenery of Penobscot Bay is stunning indeed and Camden has a fantastic library (to the great delight of the kids) and a few nice coffees, restaurants and breweries. We did a great hike on Mount Megunticook and Xiaolei, Michelle and me did a beautiful hike in the Beech Hill Preserve with lots of blueberries!!! One afternoon we went on land and decided to do a small apero in the public park. Jaël and Amina started playing with two other kids about their age. They were playing so well together that it would have been a shame to stop them. We walked over to their parents and asked if they would be ok with pizza for dinner in the park. It was the beginning of another beautiful friendship. Ned and Kristin told us that they seriously thought about buying a boat and go sailing with their kids like we do. What a funny coincidence that we met them here in this small public park. They came to Camden every summer for camping holidays. Their daughter Sophia was the same age as Jaël and their son was the same age as Amina. They normally lived in Cape Cod. We spent a wonderful evening together and invited them to Mirabella for lasagne and tiramisu on Sunday before they had to head back to Cape Cod. The kids got along perfectly well and we promised to visit them in Cape Cod on our way back South.

We moved on to Rockland  which was just a few miles South of Camden. We were a bit disappointed by the village itself as it appeared a bit run down. Maybe some businesses also had to shot down because of covid 19. There was a nice causeway to the lighthouse though which we explored together with Michelle and Cortland. 

The Fox Island Thoroughfare was a passage that everyone in Portland had highly recommended to us and it truly was one of the most beautiful sailing days we ever had on Mirabella. The sailing in this breathtaking scenery was simply magic and I will want to go back there probably for the rest of my life.  After the beautiful passage we sailed on and passed Stonington. There we realized that the impossible is possible which means you can even put more lobster traps than we thought are possible. We could hardly pass with our boat without touching one and of course did not want to put the engine on. Many of our friends had already had lobster pots around their propeller and we were not keen on making the same experience. The last few miles to the anchorage was a real challenge as we had to pass narrow passages (with lobster pots and changing winds). But we finally made it and anchored in a spectacular beautiful scenery just off a small inhabited island called “Hells half acre”. We dinghyed over to Stonington, a beautiful small town with (another) fantastic library. They had an art program going on where kids could paint a square canvas tile to decorate the walls of the library. What a great idea! This was an excellent Saturday morning program! On an other day we planned a beach BBQ and Jaël and Amina collected wood.

Will, a good friend of Andrew was there with his boat as well and they invited LITTLE CLOUD and us for dinner on their beautiful boat. Andrew and Michelle moved to Deer Isle the next day as Andrew’s sister Betsy was there on holiday. We would have loved to see Betsy again but also wanted to enjoy this beautiful anchorage as it was exactly what we imagined of picture postcard Maine. We still would see Betsy on our way South in autumn.

On Saturday we dinghyed over to Stonington, a beautiful small town with (another) fantastic library. They had an art program going on where kids could paint a square canvas tile to decorate the walls of the library. What a great thing to do! This was an excellent Saturday morning program. In the afternoon we were planning to do a beach BBQ on the small uninhabited island. We brought Jaël and Amina over a little earlier to collect wood while André and me wanted to paddle around the island with the kayak. We invited ARIA too. It became the best BBQ ever! Karsten had brought potatoes but had no aluminium foil. We were just thinking what to do, when Luca suddenly found a thin stone plate. Perfect! We cut the potatoes in thin slices and put them on the stone plate with garlic butter! Delicious! As Luca found another stone plate we decided to grill also the pork tenderloin on the stone plate! It was simply delicious!!! We really loved this anchorage and this definitely was hard to top….

But Maine has many beautiful places to offer. Our next stop, Mount Desert Island, was clearly another highlight of our sailing adventure. We first anchored outside Northeast Harbour. Not the best anchorage as it can be a bit rolly but Northeast Harbour is a charming little town that should not be missed. It is also a very good starting point to get to the carriage roads.

John D. Rockefeller wanted to travel on motorfree byways via horse and carriage into the heart of Mount Desert Island. His construction efforts from 1913 to 1940 resulted in roads that preserve the line of hillsides and save trees, align with the contours of the lands, and take advantage of scenic views. Today , carriage roads have multiple-user groups as they did in the past. Pedestrians, bicyclists and horse-drawn carriages share the beauty of these auto-free roads across the park.

We rented bicycles and made a tour up to the beautiful Jordan Pond, where we had picnic. It was like paradise… the scenery reminded me a lot of the Engadin area in Switzerland. The smell of the pine trees is divine and we loved the blueberries that we found everywhere. I even found a few chanterelles and made a sauce with them later. At some point we bumped into LITTLE CLOUD and ARIA. We had left Northeast Harbour at different times and we had great fun to cycle back all together to Northeast Harbour. It was such a great day, we loved it!! Another afternoon we did a great hike through the woods and ended up in the beautiful Thuya Garden. The woods in Mount Desert are magic. Like out of a fairy tale with lots of green moss, all kind of mushrooms and this heavenly smell of the pine trees. A little bit down the path from the Thuya Garden there was a perfect spot that Andrew and Michelle suggested for a small apero with snacks. All the “three down east musketeers” joined, which means ARIA, LITTLE CLOUD and MIRABELLA. 

Northeast Harbour is beautiful,  but as I already said the anchorage is not the best. Anyway we wanted to explore also the area of Southwest Harbour and especially Somes Sound. Somes Sound is a huge fjord. It is so long that it almost splits the whole island of Mount Desert apart. The anchorage Valley cove looked perfect. A very picturesque spot indeed. From the small beach you could even access the hiking trail. We did a great hike  there getting on the top of Acadia Mountain and then descending down to lake Echo on the other side. Blueberries everywhere on the hike and a refreshing swim in lake Echo made it a perfect day. Being in Maine with its beautiful forests felt so much like home. It made me realize how much I missed hiking in a cooler clima. The tropics are beautiful but for hiking the North is much better. This clima was simply perfect.

We stayed a while in the valley cove anchorage and visited the town Southwest Harbour with the dinghy. We were just about to move to Bar Harbour when a new boat anchored next to us. It was a family from Cape Cod with one girl and two boys. The girl was a little bit older and the boys seemed to be about the age of Jael and Amina. They were on their summer holiday with their sailing boat. The children got along very well and played for hours at the small little beach. They were building two huts and wanted to have dinner there by themselves. They even wanted to sleep there but unfortunately there was rain forecasted so they had to come back to the boat at some point. A fox came out in the dawn and watched the kids playing from a secure distance… Children connect so quickly with each other and nature is their best playground. It offers so many tools and leaves so much room for imagination and creativity. They fell into their beds tired and very happy full of excitement about their adventurous day with their new friends. Ed and Alison wanted to start their way back towards Cape Cod while we wanted to move to Bar Harbour to meet LITTLE CLOUD and ARIA again. We promised to visit them in Cape Cod on our way back South…

Our three months US visa was expiring beginning of August. Canada was opening its border for US citizens and as we had spent the last three months in the US we felt more US citizen like than anything else so we wanted to try our luck if they would let us in. But first of all we had to get a Covid PCR Test and that was not possible on Mount Desert Island. From Bar Harbor there was a public bus to Ellsworth where we could get a test. That plan worked out very nicely. After being told the price of one test (160$ per person) we decided that we do not get the kids tested… that would cost a fortune to get the four of us tested! Back in Bar Harbour we had to say goodbye to Andrew, Michelle and Cortland. They of course had no urgent need to leave the US and had way better cards to get into Canada as they were real US citizens. So we did not really know if and when we would see each other again. But somehow we hoped to see each other either in Canada or back in Portland, when we sail South again. It had been so much fun to cruise together with them.

We had enjoyed Maine and we would have loved to spend more time there. We can highly recommend it as a cruising area. It offers so many beautiful anchorages and great sailing ( just mind the lobster pots) But most of all we met some of the most welcoming and most friendly people there and we will keep so many beautiful memories in our hearts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2021

New York (May/June 2021)

It was a good crossing but not very pleasant. There were a lot of lightnings around us when we crossed the gulf stream… lucky enough the kids were asleep, so they did not notice the tense atmosphere. On Amina’s birthday on the 16th of May we were still on passage, but had luckily passed the worst. We were not yet in the mood for celebrating with cake and candles but I managed to bake some quick cinnamon rolls and many dolphins were swimming with Mirabella as if they came to cheer Amina. We promised her a nice birthday lemon cake after our arrival in New York.

On the 17th of May afternoon we could see the Verrazzano Bridge and Manhattan Skyline in a distance. We were all very excited. The one and only time I had been in New York was a long time ago. I remember that we did a boat cruise around Manhattan on my 16th birthday. I took so many pictures of the skyline with the Twin Towers of the World Trade Center and now, more than three decades later, I was here again with my own family on our own boat. Tragically, as we all know the Twin Towers are not there anymore… but the skyline is still as breathtaking as I had it in my memory.  By the time we had passed under the bridge and arrived in front of Manhattan Island it was already early evening. We anchored next to the Statue of Liberty and enjoyed the moment of the arrival in such a unique place.  It is permitted to anchor there but of course it is not a very quiet anchorage because of all the traffic around there… ferrys, daysailors, sightseeing boats, commercial boats, helicopters and so on… a very busy area of course. But for one night I think it is a must if you sail to New York. Just to have the excitement of waking up with the skyline view to one side and the Statue of Liberty to the other. We thoroughly enjoyed this arrival. Another epic moment on our journey we will never forget.

We continued our way up the Hudson river the next morning. There is a small marina called 79th Street Boat Basin. They have buoys only for smaller boats, but after the buoy zone you can anchor.  You pay a daily charge for using the dinghy dock of the marina but still this is the best and cheapest option you have when you want to explore the city.  There are also showers, a washing machine and a dryer you can use. So perfect for cruisers like us. We arrived exactly on the right time in New York. It was middle of May, covid restrictions got lifted, businesses started to open again and the weather was just perfect to visit the city and thanks to covid-19 almost no tourists around.

Not many boat anchored in the Hudson river. At the beginning it was just us, then ARIA and one or two days later there was a blue boat called ASTA. I met Annika and Thomas, a nice Swedish couple, when I was doing laundry. Funny enough we found out that we had some friends in common. They had cruised together with VILJA in 2020, a Norwegian family boat we had met in New Zealand 2019. VILJA had inspired us to take the Northern route to Europe. They had returned this way back home to Norway in the previous year. The sailing world is really small…. After a nice chat we exchanged contacts to stay in touch. Their plan was to sail up the American East coast and wait for Canada’s borders to open.

We really enjoyed exploring the city. New York offers so much – impossible to get bored.  Jaël and Amina loved  strolling around in Central Park. We rented some bicycles one day and Jaël and André did the big loop in Central park while I walked with Amina doing a few of the shorter loops. She improved with every round and at the end I had to run to keep up with her. Together with Karsten, Lucia and Luca we explored the High Line, an elevated linear park, greenway and rail trail created on a former New York Central Railroad spur on the west side of Manhattan. It leads from the Meatpacking District through Chelsea to Hudson Yards with it’s extraordinary centerpiece “The vessel”. It had 154 interconnected staircases totaling around 2500 steps but it was not yet open to the public. We rounded off this beautiful day of with a delicious meal in a good Italian restaurant.

A few days later a catamaran with American flag arrived. A family from Park City, Utah with a 12 year old boy arrived. They had just started their sailing season and planned to cruise up to Maine. Andrew, the captain, grew up in Portland and Michelle was originally from Boston. They were planning to visit their families in Boston and Portland. Jaël and Amina hit it off with their son Cortland straight away. So with ARIA and LITTLE CLOUD we were already three boats heading towards Maine. ASTA had already left by that time.

We were not yet ready to leave this fascinating city. In addition we also wanted to get a second shot covid-19 vaccination. Jaël and Amina could stay with Cortland on their boat and André and me tried our luck in the vaccination center in the Museum of Natural history which was in easy walking distance.  We had our vaccination cards from Antigua with us, proof of our Astra Zeneca first shot. But we were not lucky… they refused to mix the vaccine from different manufacturers. So they would neither give us a Pfizer 2nd shot nor a Johnson & Johnson single shot vaccine. We left the center and changed our plan… we walked to the vaccination center on Times Square and said we have no vaccine yet. We asked for the Johnson & Johnson single shot vaccine to be fully vaccinated afterwards and everything worked out perfectly fine. We were happy to be fully vaccinated now. This will make our ongoing travels much easier.

On a rainy day we explored the Vessel together with LITTLE CLOUD. It was open now and they gave away a certain amount of free tickets on the internet. We were very lucky to get some of them. It was a lot of fun to explore that unique building. We continued on the High Line towards the “Little Island” at Pier 55. This is an artificial island park in the Hudson river. We had passed it on our way to our anchorage and were wondering how it looked like from land. It has several stages for theater or music performances.  I am sure it will be very popular in summer time.

 

On June 6th we left our anchorage towards the Statue of Liberty again. We stopped on the fuel dock of Liberty Landing Marina and anchored next to the Statue of Liberty again. The plan was to wait there for the current to turn in East River. Our plan was to anchor in Manhasset Bay for the night. It was a great sightseeing tour around Manhattan Island up the East river. We passed the iconic Brooklyn Bridge and felt very lucky to have our very own private Sightseeing Tour on Mirabella. Bye bye New York, city that never sleeps… we will come again one day!

 

 

2022

Bermuda April 2021

 

Our arrival in Bermuda went very smooth, although we arrived at night. They are very well organized and talk to you on VHF so loud and clear and in perfectly spoken English that you exactly know what to do and where to go. On most places you have to deal with bad VHF quality and broken English or dialects that are difficult to understand in a place you are not familiar with. In Bermuda there is someone on duty 24 hours. The port authorities checked our documents, the Travel Authorization. They let us stay at the customs dock for the rest of the night and next morning we had to move over and tie up alongside the harbour wall. We just had to wait until health authorities were in the harbour to do our Covid test.

We got our test and a red wristband and were advised that we will be tested again on day 4, day 8 and day 14, if we do not leave until then. Whatever… for us Bermuda was more a functional stop as we wanted to get an appointment at the US embassy to get our US visas. Bad luck though as Bermuda just went into a lock down, shortly after we had left Antigua. So the embassy was closed and it was not clear yet when they would open again… Earliest appointments would be more likely end of May, beginning ofJune….

ARIA had arrived too and we discussed what we should do. André did a lot of research and found a solution, we could apply the ESTA visa. He described the process in detail in a seperate post you can read. It seemed to be our best option so Karsten decided to fly to New York with a one night stay to get the visas and we booked a flight to Atlanta with a two nights stay. We were there to watch ARIA while they were away and when they got back they watched MIRABELLA while we where in Atlanta.

Of course there was also time to explore Bermuda before our flights to the US. It is a beautiful island with some of the most pristine beaches we have ever seen. If you are more into hiking, there is also the Bermuda Railway Trail National Park. Spanning the island from end to end, the railway trail follows  an abandoned railbed that winds through tranquil landscapes and along stunning rocky coastlines. This combination and also the very pleasant clima makes Bermuda a great holiday destination. The only downside is the high prize level which is not very cruiser friendly. Even basic groceries are expensive as everything is flown in. There is no agriculture on the island. If you are aware of that, it is really a great destination.

Everything went well with Karstens flight to New York and we were just about to get ready to fly to Atlanta. We had chosen a good anchorage with a lot of room around and we had stayed there already a night to be sure that everything is gonna be fine, as there was quite some wind forecasted for the next day. André just wanted to quickly ask something at the harbour master office about the checking out procedures (when we are back from Atlanta). When they realized we are going to leave the island, they told him that we can not leave the boat unattended at the anchorage. Sometimes it is not good to wake a sleeping dog… if we would have not told them, nobody ever would have noticed that we are not there. But anyway, André came back quite angry and said they want us to move to the harbour wall…. that was just about two hours before we had to leave for the airport… and it was blowing. Not really an easy thing to do…

We lifted the anchor and moved towards the small harbour. The guy from the marina showed us where he wanted us to go. I asked him if he is sure that it is deep enough there…. he said “Yes,  I think so!”  by that time we already felt that Mirabella was touching the ground….this was just no good! I was getting really angry…we just hit the ground a second time. André reversed and the guy from the marina told us to grab the last buoy…the one really close to that shipwreck which lay there grounded. Honestly we trust our anchor more than some buoys, where we do not know how well they are maintained… We grabbed the buoy and I managed to get one eye over the starboard cleet. Before André could help me to get the second eye over the port cleet it snatched! The line of the buoy was torn apart! André ran back to the helm as the wind was blowing us right into that shipwreck. He managed to pull forward just on time and moved to the anchoring area to anchor in a good spot. That was just a lot of unnecessary stress! Not really what we needed before flying out to Atlanta. But except that hustle before leaving everything worked out perfectly. We got our visas, managed to get a PCR Test on time for our flight back to Bermuda and had a great day in the Aquarium of Atlanta.

After our return to Bermuda we got ourselves ready to leave for New York. It will not be an easy passage as we will have to cross the gulf stream. But the reward will be priceless… this will be another ultimate highlight of our trip. Arriving in New York will be just as unforgettable as arriving in Sydney Harbour. We were really looking forward to that, so let’s go!

Uncategorized

Circumnavigation as a family completed! – Back in the Carribean, Mar/Apr 2021

It was a very special feeling to be back in the Caribbean. Here we were again after three years…we made it, we circumnavigated the globe as a family…. what a great achievement. It makes you feel proud, thankful and also a bit melancholic. In your head you see again and again the pictures of all these  beautiful places we have been able to visit in the past three years. This is something we will always keep in our hearts. It had never been my goal to circumnavigate and Andre would have never managed to convince me to commit for more than two maybe three years. I committed for two years thinking it might would end up in three years and then we would be back. But at some point, I think it was when we were in Australia, I started thinking it would be nice to bring the boat back to Europe. When we met these other kids boats in Port Moresby all heading to the Mediterranean through the Red Sea I was completely in. As you know our plans changed again afterwards… especially in sailing, plans are very often there to be changed… I am very happy that we did it that way.

Antigua is a beautiful island. Especially Pigeon Point Beach and English harbour are stunning. We wanted to stay one night at the dock at the Antigua Yacht Club to wash down all the salt from the passage but unfortunately there was no running water on the dock. The repairs did not progress as planned so we moved to the anchorage in front of Pigeon Point Beach. There were a lot of turtles and spotted rays around and the snorkelling was beautiful. On the beach there were some nice woodden huts where you could have a picnic. The girls were of course happy when they saw our South African friends of FREEDOM arrive. We had some beautiful days together. Did a wonderful hike up to the Shirley Heights Lookout together and Deirdre and me hiked from Pigeon Point Beach to Nelsons Dockyard one afternoon and afterwards we met Andre, Michael and the three girls for dinner at Flatties Flame Grill. There was still a curfew at 8 pm but for a early dinner it was just fine.

Karsten & family were in Antigua as well. After their sailing week in Thailand they had bought a Lagoon catamaran and named it ARIA. Karsten and Xiaolei were separated now but crossed the Atlantic with the ARC rally in November. Xiaolei was following them since on land. She invited us over for lunch in her Air B&B at Hodges Bay. There was a lot to catch up with and we spent a beautiful day together.

A few days later Karsten, Lucia and Lucia arrived on ARIA as well. It was great to see each other again after a bit more than a year. After Mallorca and Thailand it was the third time we met on our journey but now, for the first time, they were cruising on their own boat. They had made a beautiful Mirabella with crew chocolate cake creation for our circumnavigation and we celebrated on their beautiful spacious boat. With ARIA there was also another kids boat SELKIE. André had been in contact with Nick on social media before and it was great to finally meet them. The curfew was lifted and we had a nice sushi dinner at the Yacht Club with FREEDOM, ARIA, SELKIE and a few other boats from the ARC fleet.

We moved to Green island, a great anchorage on the eastern side of Antigua, very popular for kite surfing. There were not many boats there on our arrival and we managed to get a well protected spot close to the small beach. ARIA was there with us and more and more boats of the ARC fleet followed. It is a perfect spot for a beach fire and many of the cruisers joined. It was a beautiful evening with snake bread and a lot of grilled marshmellows.

 

André arranged a haul out at North Sound Marina to fix a leaking seacock and in addition we wanted to redo our antifouling. Unfortunately the product we had put on in Reunion was not that good. Already in South Africa where we had a diver cleaning the hull we had a lot more barnacles than you could expect after such a short period. So, we moved to North Sound Marina and hauled out. André was taking care of the leaking seacock, which turned out to be more complicated than we thought and therefore I was in charge of the antifouling. It was a lot of work but also fun. It is good to see the progress of your work and have a beautiful boat at the end. We had completely forgotten that Easter holiday was ahead of us, so we just did not make it on time to splash back into the water before. We did not want to rush and give it enough time to dry. André had rented a car so we could see a bit of the surroundings. We drove to St. Johns and also to Jolly Harbour.

We splashed back into the water after Easter and sailed down to Falmouth to meet FREEDOM again. They were almost done with their engine project. Rumours spread that you could get a COVID vaccine at one of the vaccination centers as the local people were not really keen of getting vaccinated. Jaël and Amina could stay with Michael, Deirdre and Meghan and André and me took the local bus to St. Johns. It all worked out perfectly. We did not have to wait very long and got our vaccination. We thought this would probably help on our further travels to Bermuda and New York.

Our time in Antigua was coming to an end. It was time to move on to Bermuda. We wanted to stop there to get the US Visa at the American embassy. André had filled out all the necessary forms but an interview at an embassy is mandatory. To get an appointment at the embassy we needed to be in Bermuda first. Despite all our efforts we could not persuade FREEDOM to sail up North with us. They decided to spend the hurricaine season in Grenada… another sad goodbye… We would have loved to cruise with them a little bit longer.  Karsten from ARIA decided to come with us up to New York and Canada with us. How cool to travel up North together!

 

 

2020, 2021

South Africa (Nov 2020 to Jan 2021)

 

After a tearful goodbye we left la Réunion together with our friends from MILANTO and LOUMARAN. SEA LOVER waited for a crew member to fly in and followed after lunch. As usually on passages friends boats disappear very soon from the AIS because every boat has a different pace and routing but with MILANTO we finally found a buddy boat with very similar speed. We were able to talk to each other regularly on the VHF and once on a sunny morning we even got a short guitar concert from Lorenzo via VHF and we crossed. We sailed together the last day of our passage with 30 knots wind from behind and strong Agulhas current with us and the coast of Africa in sight. It was beautiful sailing and a special and unforgettable day.

We arrived in Tuzi Gazi, Richards Bay and were welcomed by our friends Rudy and Tom who crossed on MONFREID, our neighbour boat in La Réunion. They had left Reunion on the 1st of November. Also Alejandro and David from SEALOVER were there and took our lines. Unfortunately it was Friday afternoon and the PCR test could not be done before Monday. So we were not allowed to leave the boat and could not yet move to the Zululand Yacht Club where our friends from Réunion were. The waterfront was very busy on the weekend. Locals were strolling up and down the pier, taking pictures of the boats. Every morning at sunrise the monkeys came to the boats on the pier and were looking for open hatches to steal some food. We had been warned before so we had closed the windows and the companionway over night. On a catamaran they had found an open window and they managed to steal a few oranges before they were discovered and chased away.

A staff member of one of the waterfront restaurants was very clever. He brought us the menu and offered delivery to the boat. What a treat! On Monday we could finally do our PCR Test but unfortunately it took a while until we got the results. After that we had to go to customs and immigration to fill out some more forms… Mélanie and Romaric had rented a car and took us to the grocery stores. We had heard about the braai culture in South Africa and after we had seen the meat in the supermarket we understood why it was so popular. We have not had meat in that quality at such a reasonable price for a long time…

Finally on Wednesday we could move to the Zululand Yacht Club. There we met more of our Réunion friends again. Mélanie and Romaric were there of course, Fred, Rudy and Tom from MONFREID, Daniel with his crew Marcella, Alejandro and David from SEALOVER, Valerio and Lorenzo from MILANTO and Alain with his crew Jenny and Mia from TEC’HADENN. It was nice to be together again. There was also the Swedish boat DAWNBREAKER. Lars had flown home from Réunion and had the boat on the hard for most of the time there so we had met him just towards the very end of our Réunion time.

Richards Bay was a good starting point to go on safaris. There were a few nature reserves within a few hours driving distance. As South Africa had just opened his borders there were not a lot of tourists yet and the safari lodges offered discount rates. Together with MILANTO, LOUMARAN and SEALOVER we had booked a stay in the Rhino Ridge Lodge in Hluhluwe Imfolozi game reserve. It is the oldest proclaimed reserve in Africa. Still very wild with a size of 96000 hectares. The last half hour of the drive to the lodge led through the reserve. We already saw some zebras and impalas. The location of the lodge was a dream. It was on a hill looking over the nature reserve With the binoculars you could observe the rhinos and zebras drinking at a waterhole. There was always a morning safari with a coffee break and an afternoon safari with sundowner drink on a beautiful view point. It was beautiful! We saw lots of warthogs, zebras, impalas, nyalas, rhinos, girafes, wildbeests and elefants. Our guide was very experienced. He was very good at spotting also the smallest creatures like leopard turtles along the road, baby crocodiles in a creek or a dung beetle rolling his huge ball of dung to create the perfect home for his future family. He also knew a lot about the plants. He tried hard to show us a big cat like a lion or a leopard. I always had a sharp lookout too if I would spot a sleepy leopard on one of these beautiful amarula trees… but no luck. But also without seeing any wildcats this was a unique and unforgettable experience. After three nights we drove to St. Lucia and visited the Isimangaliso Wetland park there on our own. You think twice when there are some rhinos or buffalos close to the driveway. Should we stop or should we try to pass slowly… or maybe turn around…. it is very different to drive by yourself a normal car and pass these powerful creatures than sitting in a safari jeep with an experienced driver and ranger. These people know so much better how to read the animals signs. But nonetheless we had a great day in the park and in St. Lucia.  We stayed at the Urban Glamping tented village which was a lot of fun. The staff told us to lock the tent because of the curious monkeys… and indeed there were a lot of them all over the place.  It was fun, to watch these clever mammals from the veranda of our tent. The following day we were heading back to Richards Bay.

If you want to sail around the Cape of Good Hope you have to be patient and wait for the right weather window. There are just a few stops on the way where you can hide. The wind is usually blowing full speed North or South and changes direction very quickly, which makes the weather windows very short. There is also the strong Agulhas current pushing South. You absolutely have to avoid having the current against the wind as this can produce high standing waves.
To make things short the passage to Durban did not get very high ratings among the crew but we made it in time to Durban before the wind was turning again. Valerio always said it is not a pleasure cruise it is a delivery that is how you should see it!

Durban is not a very nice town.  People told us it was nice once but now it is very rundown and even on the short way from the marina to the Durban Beach Front we did not feel very comfortable and safe. We were really just waiting for the right weather to head further South. If possible we wanted to skip East London and sail directly to Port Elizabeth. We wanted to visit the Addo Elephant park from there as it is very close and in addition we wanted to visit the parents of a former colleague from work from André.  After 4 days we left Durban and really got a window that took us all the way down to Port Elizabeth.  MILANTO and SEALOVER were with us, LOUMARAN decided to pull into East London.  More boats of the Reunion fleet followed early next morning like Mélanie and Romaric on REDER BRO and Niklas on HAFSORKESTERN.

The marina in Port Elizabeth is in very bad condition. The pontoons are all moving around a lot and the wind blows all the metal dust from the iron ore storage just next to the marina on the boats.  And of course there is a lot of wind and therefore a lot of dirt. Because of that you can not really sit outside in the cockpit and downstairs you get seasick because everything is moving.  For the boatschooling we moved to the nearby restaurant on land and most of our cruising friends were there too because of the same reasons. It is a DELIVERY we were once again reminded from Valerio…  But in spite of the bad maintained marina we had a nice lunch at Donald’s parents place and a great day in the Addo Elephant park together with Mélanie and Romaric.

Our next planned stop was Knysna. The entrance is only doable in settled conditions as it is narrow with dangerous rocks on both sides. It looks spectacular and beautiful but you have to pay attention to get your bearings right. The Knysna Yacht Club is one of the most welcoming Yacht Clubs in the world and definitely the best Yacht Club in South Africa. They let us stay at their dock at the prime spot, free of charge and even brought us a wooden staircase (normally only the superyachts have those)! What a treat after the rocky pontoons and howling winds in Port Elizlabeth! We felt at home immediately. There is a nice restaurant in the Yacht Club, a lively bar and even a small playground just around the corner and the view over the Knysna lagoon is fantastic. Welcome back to the cruising mode… the delivery was done – not yet around the cape but it seemed at least the worst part of it.

While MILANTO and SEALOVER soon wanted to move on to Cape Town we decided to stay a little bit longer. André had found a paragliding school in Wilderness where he could do his licence and I made a few beautiful excursions with the girls. Lars and his crew from DAWNBREAKER asked us if we would like to join them on a excursion to Plettenberg. We visited together the huge free flight bird santuary “Birds of Eden” and the Tenikwa Wildlife Rehabilitation & Awareness Center. Both places we can highly recommend.

Of course we also wanted to see where André was doing his flights. One day we accompanied him to Wilderness and Mélanie and Romaric joined too. We had a great had a great day at on the beautiful beach together and joined André later in the afternoon to watch him paragliding. As the monitor asked me if I would like to come on a tandem flight I spontaneously said yes. It was really beautiful and I could understand André’s excitement about the paragliding there.  You fly alongside the cliffs and you can even spot the dolphins in the clear blue sea!

The amazing thing when you travel with kids is that they make new friends in no time. On Friday, 18th of December, André was back from paragliding and had to do some work on the boat and I went off to do some laundry. When I got back late afternoon Jaël was all excited telling me they got two new friends and as I stepped on the boat there was a woman in the cockpit I had not seen before. She introduced herself as Silvana and was mother of two boys, Michael and Gregory same age as Amina and Jaël. Her boys were invited at a kids birthday party on the Yacht Club terrace. Jaël and Amina were hanging around and kind of joined the party. They told the other kids that they live on that blue sailboat and had sailed all the way to South Africa. So Silvana (she has Italian roots) of course wanted to know if this is all true and asked them for a boat tour…. and there she was 🙂 her husband Warren joined, we offered them a drink on Mirabella. Later on we all moved by dinghy to their holiday apartment for a BBQ. They were from Johannesburg and spent their Christmas holiday always in Knysna where Warren’s father lived. They invited us over to a big family lunch at Warren’s uncle’s place. It was a beautiful afternoon with a lot of laughter and fun. Thank you again Warren and Silvana for inviting us! And of course thank you Jaël and Amina for chatting up these nice people!

 

As most boats of our Reunion fleet were already in Cape town and we wanted to spend Christmas with them we thought it was time to move on. André had accomplished his paragliding pilot licence and there was a good weather window ahead.  On the 21st of December we passed the heads of Knysna and left for Cape town. We rounded the Cape Agulhas, the most southern point of Africa the following day in settled conditions.  What a mile stone of our journey! We arrived in Cape town on the 23rd of December.  One of these moments that I will never forget… arriving in Cape Town on our own sailing boat, seeing the famous Table Mountain in the morning sun.

We decided to stay in the V&A Waterfront Marina as you can discover the town on foot.  Andre’s sister Karin was supposed to visit us and therefore it would be much easier to explore if we do not need a car. The other option would have been the Royal Cape Yacht Club which is less expensive and very cruiser friendly with a nice BBQ area. But it is located near the industrial harbour area and from there you do not get anywhere without car. The location of the V&A marina is simply unbeatable. It is well protected and very calm. From the boat you can watch the sealions swim around and at night you find them sleeping on the pontoons. Within a short walking distance you can reach supermarket, shops, restaurants and also a playground.

Our French friends from Reunion were all in Hout Bay so we spent the 24th of December there together with REDER BRO, SOLEDAD, MONFREID and TEC`HADENN.  The 25th December we celebrated together with the boats who were at the V&A Marina, like MILANTO, SEALOVER, LOUMARAN, SEABISCUIT, OSPREY and ANNA CAROLINE. As the Covid-19 cases were rising the gouvernment implemented a night curfew and selling alcohol was prohibited in restaurants and supermarkets. Normally we  would not have cared about the ban on alcohol but being in South Africa with all these great winerys and not being able to go on a winetram in Stellenbosch was a bit of a shame… Most of the restaurants closed earlier as everyone was supposed to be home at 9 p.m.  But during the day everything was open, so no need to complain.

One day André took the kids to go climbing near Hout Bay with Charles, Fanny and Tom. We arranged to meet at the Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden in the afternoon. Mélanie, Romaric, Charles and Fanny would join for a visit too and I would take the kids while André would go back to Mirabella. I had a nice city stroll in the morning,  I walked to Greenmarket square, the Company’s garden and the Bo-Kaap area. Cape Town is a beautiful town with a lot to discover. The history lays still heavy on it though and you still rarely see black and white people together. Too many things have happened and still happen. The call for redemption was so loud that now things seem to turn the other way around which is not good either and will only cause more hate again. You can not make things undone but you can learn from mistakes. It is never good to legally favor a group of people. I do hope that South Africa will find a way to solve these difficult conflicts. Naturewise it is a beautiful and very rich country.  We cought a glimpse of that beauty in the Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden. The location is a winner already and the variety of protea flowers (South Africa’s national flower) is incredible. On New Year’s eve we made a small get together with all the cruising boats in the Waterfront marina. By the our French friends were all in the Cape Town Yacht club and because of the curfew we could not celebrate all together.  Instead we made a BBQ at the Yacht Club early January.

 

Karin had booked a flight to come and visit us in Cape Town but things had become quite complicated with the new South African variant of the virus. Her flight was firsts cancelled, then put back on schedule and finally postponed by a day. We could hardly believe, that she managed to come and visit us in these circumstances . But there she was – she arrived on January 1st! The last time she stayed with us on the boat was from Niue to New Zealand in September/October 2018, that was a while ago. So nice to have her back again. André managed to rent a car for a few days so that we could also explore the surroundings  of Cape Town with her.  There were plenty of things to do and see .  One day we drove to Simons Town. It is famous for it’s colony of African penguins at boulders beach. This picturesque area, with enormous boulders dividing small, sandy coves is home to a colony of some 3000 African penguins. Fascinating to see those funny walking creatures that close. They can make quite a noise…

On another day we booked the Cape Canopy Tour near Grabouv. We left Cape Town early morning and had a late breakfast at a cool Sunday market,  the Elgi n Railway Market. There was a big selection of delicious food stalls located in a beautifully restored old apple warehouse.  What a great start into a beautiful day. We continued our drive to to the Canopy tour location. We got equipped with helmets, harnesses, gloves and the zipping device. A 4×4 jeep took us on a 45min. mountain trip to the starting point of the Canopy tour. All in all there were 11 slides and a suspension bridge all beautifully hidden in the mountainous scenery. It was a lof of fun and we would highly recommend it!

The Elgin Railway Market is just one of many cool weekend markets in and around Cape Town. In the waterfront area there is the Oranjezicht City Farm Market. It is a great location and the perfect way to start a Saturday or Sunday. There is a huge variety of food stalls and it is difficult to make a choice.  The Old Biscuit Mill is another cool place we visited one weekend. Valerio was with us that day and there we met Maurizio and Catherine, who were selling delicious salami on one of the numerous market stalls. Maurizio is Italian and if an Italian sells salami you can be sure that it is really good! We bought some for our next passage and Valerio exchanged phone contacts and invited them over.

While Karin was still with us, André and me could go on a hike together without the kids. We normally wanted to hike up Table Mountain but unfortunately there was too much wind that day so we decided to hike up to Lion’s Head instead which offers a beautiful view on Cape Town too and you can walk down Signal Hill afterwards, where they still shoot the gun at 12 o’clock midday. Karin had to head back to Switzerland after 8 days. We had had a great time together!

Maurizio and Catherine visited MILANTO and came to see us on Mirabella as well.  We suggested to go on a hike all together and Maurizio and Cathering picked the hike to Suther Peak. What a great choice. There were some friends of Catherine joining as well and so we met Nina from Geneva, Elena, a very experienced sailor, and Sylvie, an English Teacher. It was an unforgettable and beautiful hike with stunning views. Nina and Sylvie wanted to see our boat as well, so we invited them over another day. Maurizio and Catherine joined as well and also Alessia, who had two kids, Aline (10 years) and Conrad (8 years). It was just great to meet all these people. The longer you stay at one place the more connections you make and the harder it gets to leave. Alessia invited us over at her house (by the way a really cool house) and the kids had a lot of fun to play together in the pool and in their tree house.

Our friends from SOLEDAD; REDER BRO and MONFREID had already left for Brazil early January. St. Helena whose borders had been open all the time suddenly closed the borders because of the spreading South African variant of the virus.  What a pity! We had been looking forward to stop on that interesting island in the middle of nowhere… Frank from MAXIM had decided to sail directly to Martinique, many others decided to stop at the northeastern tip of Brazil. Cruising friends recommended us a marina in Cabedelo where they would let us in even if Brazil was closed. We were not yet ready to leave. André had helped Valerio with his engine problem and after what he had seen there made him think that maybe he should take a closer look on our engine as well….  It is like opening Pandora’s Box… What he discovered was not so good. The turbo was completely stuck. To get the turbo cleaned he litterally had to take all the engine apart.  A quite adventurous thing. Luckily he found a good Diesel engine specialist, a very relyable guy named Werner (with German roots) who could clean all the parts. It was a challenging two weeks project. But at the end André had put all the cleaned parts back together and the engine worked! Well done Captain!

While André was busy with the engine project we focused on boat school and bicycle practice. Very close by there was a bicycle rental where. We went there several times in the afternoon and rented a bike for one hour. It was not a very busy area and Amina and Jaël could do rounds  and practice their bicydle skills. At the beginning I had to hold Amina and run along with her but she quickly made progress.  At the end she just needed a little help to start.  We also went on a short bike tour in Stellenbosch, that was fantastic. There André rented a shadow bike for Amina .

 

As soon as the engine project was finished we were getting ready to leave. We ordered some first class parmiggiano and more salami from Maurizio for the passage which lasted by the way until Antigua and was a real treat! Best cheese on board since a long time!!! Thank you Maurizio! Nina brought us some Ragusa chocolates and Jaël and Amina got two heart shaped boxes with Lindor chocolates from Maurizio and Catherine which they both kept like a treasure. Before we left we had a lovely dinner at Maurizio and Catherine’s place and farewell drinks with all our cruising and Cape Town friends on LOUMARAN. When we left Cape Town for Brazil we even got escorted by MILANTO with Lorenzo singing a farewell song. It had been a lot of fun cruising together. MILANTO, LOUMARAN and SEALOVER were not ready yet to leave beautiful Cape Town and we where not sure if and when we would see each other again. Thank you South Africa for a wonderful time!

 

2021

Alone – Sailing 1600nm across the Atlantic in winter (Nov/Dec 2021)

Ice on the sprayhood at the end of November was the final reminder that the sailing season in North America is well and truly over. It was high time to head south.

After a freezing night, leaving Marion at Sunrise, .

Our second visit in New England was later then originally planned. This time we came in from Canada. However, due to US travel restrictions, travelers from Canada were not allowed to cross the border to the US on land or water until 8 November 2021.

Why so late?

So instead of an October visit to see our dear friends in Maine and Massachusetts again, it turned out to be a November visit. November in New England is beautiful. The automn colors are still there, the days are often sunny and cool and everything is in a very nice light. The nights were getting really cold, but thanks to our forcefull diesel heater, we never had a cold cabine.

The thing that remained was the thought of when to escape to the Caribbean. An old salt in Halifax told me that there is no weather window before mid December. I wasn’t convinced and consulted the pilot charts instead. They were very clear. November is not a good month to cross to Bermuda, but December is definitly worse.

The journey, approx. 1600nm from Marion, MA via Bermuda to St. Martin, Caribbean.

Additionally, Eva Maria and the kids wanted to visit Switzerland to see family and friends again. The grandparents were asking more and more often.

Shall I try it alone?

I thought this might be the best opportunity to have a go at single handed sailing. This is something I always wanted to try and I felt that both Mirabella and myself were ready for it. We booked flights to Switzerland and return to the Caribbean for Eva Maria and the kids at the end of November. And I watched the weather closely.

On the 24. November, there was an acceptable weather window. Strong  NW winds till Bermuda, forecasted mostly around 20kts, increasing to 25-30kts when the front passes, gusts forecasted in the 30+kts. Not great, but by far the best for a long time and probably as good as one can expect at the end of November. I spoke to Ed, our friend who has done the crossing to the caribbean in November/December multiple times. He agreed, yes, this is an ok window.

Temperature curve as forecasted by Predict Wind

On the eve of the departure Eva Maria and the kids left the boat, it was freezing cold and I planned to leave at first light the next morning. After a good but short sleep I got the boat ready at 5am and slipped the mooring line shortly before sunrise.  

It is happening

Ice cold wind blew in my face as I made my way out of Buzzards Bay, the diesel furnace blew hot air into the cabin, but outside I was exposed the the elements. I needed to sail upwind for the first 20 miles before I could turn south towards to sun. It was a challenging sail against the wind and it gave me a queasy stomach that wouldn’t go away for a day. After 3 hours I happily turned the bow south, getting the wind over my starbord stern. Much better.

Rough beginning in cold weather

First time alone on the ocean

The feeling of sailing alone was very strange. After 45’000 miles with the family, it was an unnatural feeling to be alone on the boat.    There was no one to talk to, no discussion about the sail plan or weather routing. No kids that demanded my attention. Only me and some less then ideal weather.

The first two days were broad reaching in 25kts of wind and maybe 3m of wave. Not very comfortable but managable. It was the anticipation of the front passing over us on the 3rd day that occupied my thoughts. 30kts steady wind, gusting to 40kts was forecasted.

I kept Mirabella moving quickly, I wanted to be south of the gulfstream when the front hit. The gulfstream can be treacherous place to be caught out in bad weather. This strong current quickly creates waves that are much higher then normal. Luckily, the wind was in the same direction as the current, this should keep the waves to a more normal level. But still, better to be out of the current.
On the evening before the front would hit, I took the main sail down completly and tied it down. This way it could not accidentially open up again. My plan was to weather the front under genoa alone. Just in case I needed to reef further. 

The waves started to get larger

The strong front passes

The front arrived as predicted the next day and quickly we had winds gusting into the 40s. I observed the spectacle from the companion way when I saw a large mean looking cloudbank arrive. Heavy rain and even stronger winds were coming for Mirabella! The wind started to gust up to 54kts, it was loud, wet and uncomfortable. The genoa was reefed to a few m2, we surfed down the waves with up to 16kts. It was freightening but everything was stable and all I had to do was hang in there.

Around the world but NEVER have I seen this much wind. I didn’t have any willpower to take pictures from outside.

After an hour the winds reduced to 30kts again.  Coming from 50+kts this felt already normal again. I gradually unfurled more genoa and continued on my path to Bermuda.

When the wind pipes up like this, it feels good to be on a well maintained X-Yacht. Luckily, nothing got damaged, no water came into the boat and all systems just continued as normal.

Bermuda

After 4 days I arrived in Bermuda after sunset. Bermuda is very professional and everything is well marked. They have the worlds best radio operators and a very efficient customs. One hour after my arrival, I was cleared in. I dropped the anchor in the Powder Hole bay and was ready for a long sleep.

I love arriving in Bermuda!

Together with Aria, I enjoyed 5 days of relaxed life in Bermuda. Then a nice looking weather forecast came up. 5 days / 880nm of beam reaching to Saint Martin. Yes, that sounds like me.

Most beautiful sailing to the Caribbean

The second leg was everything the first wasn’t. The wind was great, the weather was warm and it didn’t rain. I managed a very good 180nm per day. Alone! Sailing was just great. I started to really like this way of sailing. When the going is great, I found the solitude beautiful. I was busy keeping Mirabella moving, checking all the systems and cooking. But there was enough time to watch the dolphines and read a book in the cockpit. If it wasn’t for the interrupted sleep pattern I would have wanted to sail on for much longer.

Leaving Bermuda
Beautiful sailing
All is perfect!
The sunset start to look very tropical

We arrived in Saint Martin at lunch time after 5 days. Marigot bay, the French side, was too rolly so I moved on to Simpson bay on the Dutch side and anchored there for the night. On arrival I spotted Patrick on Ostrika. He gladly helped me to get the dinghy in the water.  

St. Martin!

Together with Patrick and some of his friends, I spend the night at Lagoonies. A great evening with very good food and a nice beer. What a way to arrive, Caribbean I’m here!

The family is back
2020

La Réunion, (May – Nov 2020)

 

In the morning of May 14th we could see the lights of la Réunion. We arrived at sunrise and had to wait one hour to enter the marina. While circling close to the entrance I heard a splash and saw a big tail disappearing in the water. A whale!!! We moved towards that direction and circled a bit around keeping a good lookout. And we got rewarded for our patience. The whale jumped out and breached several times…. What a welcome!! La Réunion we love you already!

After the beautiful welcome of the whale in the morning things continued just perfectly. Jerôme, the harbour master and Mikael waited for us at the berth in the „darse Titan“ which is the newer marina. Within less than an hour Mirabella was safely tied up and we were cleared in and free to go on land. Restaurants were not open yet only take aways and masks were mandatory in shops but that was it. No other restrictions! Hurray! Back to an almost normal life!

We headed off for a walk to the village to find a bakery. We were longing for a crispy baguette and a pain au chocolat! We enjoyed both on the square in front of the church and felt like newborn. We arranged a reservation for a rental car and continued our village tour towards the „darse ouest“ where our friends from Tec’hadenn were. It was quite a walk especially after our passage and the lockdown time in Maldives where the maximum walk was around our small island which was sometimes – depending on the tide – more a swim than a walk.

Tycho and Alain were not on the boat and Amina’s batteries were running very low. So we enjoyed an ice cream at the small cafe at the fuel station. We were just about to finish when Niklas a Swedish single-handed sailor on his boat HAFSORKESTERN arrived. We had doubled him the night before and André has had a chat with him on the VHF. He had been one of the other boats stuck near Male during lockdown. We offered to show him the way to the „darse Titan“ and he offered us a lift. So we jumped on board and moved. When we arrived in darse Titan there was a group of people waiting for him… Jerôme and Mikael from the harbour but also a lady from the Norwegian embassy and some reporters with a camera. We helped Niklas with the lines and then quickly got off the boat trying to be as invisible as we possibly could be with two children (haha) but of course the reporters had seen us too and asked where we came from. They were doing a short story for the daily news about the first foreign sailing boats arriving to la Réunion after the lockdown. So they interviewed us as well. It was just a short story on the news that evening but funny enough we had several encounters with locals during our time in la Réunion where the people told us they had seen us on television.

What a beautiful first day and what a change to the previous two months! And this was just the beginning of our wonderful time in la Réunion! We met a few other boats who also had the same plans like us and were also stuck in la Réunion as Mauritius and Madagascar were closed. For example two young French couples, Mélanie and Romaric from REDER BRO and Fanny and Charles from SOLEDAD. They became very good friends and also Jaël and Amina loved to spend time with them. Amina decided to give Mélanie English lessons as she said that she herself was not made for speaking French. A few weeks later arrived Frank, a German single-handed sailor on MAXIM who had tried in vain to get into Mauritius and Lisa and Johan from the Swedish boat RUBICON who had crossed the Atlantic with us in November 2017. We had not seen them since Barbados and it was nice to see them again after such a long time.  German single hand sailor Frank on MAXIM who had tried to get into Mauritius

There were also people living on boats in the marina permanently like Delphine for example who started to give yoga lessons during the lockdown, then there was Olivier, a teacher who regularly went climbing and Manu, who rents two holiday appartments and dreams of a longterm sailing adventure himself. On the same pontoon as Manu there was Ian, who worked on the Maïdo Observatory 2160m above sealevel and his wife Patricia. The only family with a kid who lived in the marina was Lucrece and Julien with her son Tao, who was a bit younger than Amina. Then, next to SOLEDAD there was Jean-Marc who left la métropole long ago and would never go back to live in France. He showed me which market stall had the best pineapples. On the same pontoon were Noemie and Iker with their dogs Dodo and Rita. And of course there was Georges a real Créol who knows everything about the local kitchen, Maloya music and dance. He always brought the sweetest and juiciest pineapples to every party we had. He lives on a small selfbuilt red catamaran and maybe will also leave for a sailing adventure one day. On our pontoon there was Christian, who was very helpful in the regalvanising process of our anchor and Aurélie and Gilles who always had time for a friendly chat.

So to make things short, there was really like a „Darse Titan community“ and we felt very much at home. In addition we also made friends with two local families. David, who we had met in French Polynesia, when he was travelling as crew on another boat, with his girlfriend Stéphanie and two kids, Kénoa (same age as Jaël) and Eileen (same age as Amina) and Christine and Christophe with their daughter Lola (same age as Jaël), whom we met on our first Sunday  evening in St. Denis, while we were waiting for our pizza… Christine was playing „un, deux, trois soleil!“ with her daughter and Amina decided to join them. Christine recognized us from the TV interview and was very excited. During the week they live in St. Denis, the capital city of la Réunion, where Christine works as an English teacher. On the weekends they live in the South of the Island. Christine is a very proud of her island and absolutely wanted to show us the beautiful and wild South of la Réunion. So we exchanged whats app contact. What a beautiful encounter!

From the beginning we realized, that this is a very special place. Two days after our arrival, on  Amina’s birthday, we made a beautiful hike from Dos d’âne to Roche vert bouteille with Jacques and Tycho. The scenery just blew us away and we enjoyed this beautiful hike. Réunion really has it all…. Stunning beaches, countless hiking trails, waterfalls, natural sweet water pools, climbing routes and perfect conditions for paragliding. Impossible to get bored. And in combination with all these friendly people we met it just made the perfect place for us to be. Fanny and Mélanie started a planting project with our girls which was a lot of fun. Jaël and Amina sometimes also went by themselves to buy fresh baguette in the morning.

 

More French cruising boats arrived and towards September also more international sailing boats. MILANTO a beautiful Swan with two Italians, Valerio and Lorenzo on board arrived and  LOUMARAN a Chilenian boat with father and son, Jorge senior and Jorge junior on board. SEALOVER a Mexican Catamaran was in the other marina. Daniel, the Mexican, and Valerio had started the World Arc but due to Covid 19 the World Arc got cancelled in Tahiti. They decided to continue and sailed together since.

The landscape of Réunion Island was mainly shaped by the volcano „Piton des neiges“ which is not active anymore. With its 3060m above sealevel it is also the highest summit of the Indian Ocean.The big eruptions of his active life shaped the areas of Cirque de Cilaos, Cirque de Salazie and Cirque de Mafate. The other volcano „Piton de la Fournaise“ is still active and already had two eruptions early that year. The Cirque de Mafate is the most remote one of the three. You can easily spend several days there hiking from one village to the other and stay in one of the lovely gites overnight. We spent a wonderful Mafate weekend with Christine, Christophe, Lola and some of their friends. Cilaos became also one of our favourite spots. The curvy road to get there and the scenic views are simply spectacular. We went camping there with Stéphanie, David, Kénoa and Eileen by a small creek, that was great fun. André and I even did a night hike all the way up to the summit of Piton des Neiges together with our friends  from Soledad and RederBro.  We started at 2 o’clock at night with our head torches to be up on the summit at sunrise. It was an epic hike we will never forget! We can highly recommend! Réunion is also a paragliding paradise. Jacques and Alain told us how fantastic it was and so André and me had a go. Whereas André turned out to be a natural talent, I had a few rough landings on the second day which made me doubt if I will ever fly all by myself. On the third day there was the tutorial tandem flight on the program. We had to do a few technical exercices in the air like clapping in the outer wings. I focused oh the wings above me and felt a bit dizzy.  Nothing serious but just enough to confirm my feeling that my paragliding career will end with this tutorial flight and I will never fly all alone. André made great progress and he made a bunch of solo flights during our time in Réunion. Jaël and Amina made some new friends in the Marina. During two weeks of the school holidays Vincent and Claire lived on their boat with their two boys Sydney and Kim. The kids got along very well and enjoyed playing together when there was time. Vincent worked on the Marion Dufresne , a research and supply vessel which was moored just next to the Darse Titan.